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Fortaleza is a major city on Brazil's northeast coast and the capital of Ceará state. It is one of the largest cities in Brazil and certainly one of the most vibrant. The city is perhaps the most popular domestic package tour destination, and Europeans are following suit. Despite being quite a party town, the carnival in Fortaleza is rather feeble, though growing bigger by the year, with the largest parades being maracatu-style. There are 2.55 million inhabitants in the city and 3.5 million in the metropolitan area.
The official history of Fortaleza as a permanent settlement dates back to the 17th century when the Dutch had a brief dispute with the Portuguese over the territory. The first settlement was known as Fort Schoonenborch and it was founded by the Dutch West Indian Company in 1649. During Portuguese and Brazilian... Read more
Fortaleza is a major city on Brazil's northeast coast and the capital of Ceará state. It is one of the largest cities in Brazil and certainly one of the most vibrant. The city is perhaps the most popular domestic package tour destination, and Europeans are following suit. Despite being quite a party town, the carnival in Fortaleza is rather feeble, though growing bigger by the year, with the largest parades being maracatu-style. There are 2.55 million inhabitants in the city and 3.5 million in the metropolitan area.
The official history of Fortaleza as a permanent settlement dates back to the 17th century when the Dutch had a brief dispute with the Portuguese over the territory. The first settlement was known as Fort Schoonenborch and it was founded by the Dutch West Indian Company in 1649. During Portuguese and Brazilian rule, the city has had several names, always beginning with Fortaleza (fortress in Portuguese).
However, some local historians fiercely defend the thesis that the very first European to land in South America — allegedly the Spaniard Vicente Yáñez Pinzón — did so where the city's port is situated today, in January 1500, i.e. a few months before the Portuguese Pedro Alvares Cabral's much-celebrated arrival in Porto Seguro.
Probably the most proudly remembered occasion of local history was the abolition of slavery in 1884, four years ahead of Brazil as a whole. The mulatto Dragão do Mar, the native of Aracati, reached a near-mythical status for his role in the boycott of slave ships starting in 1881 and is still widely recognized.
The author José de Alencar is so important for the identity of the city of Fortaleza (and also the state), that its inhabitants are nicknamed Alencarinos. He eagerly discussed the origins of the people, languages and geographical names of the region. Most important in this context is the novel Iracema, with its renowned main character lending her name to several neighborhoods and inspiring statues around town.
In Brazil, Fortaleza is famous for the forró music and dance, and its crop of comedians. Cearenses (people born in Ceará) are also famous for their ease and fondness for a good verbal joke, from which derives a colorful and hilarious local vocabulary (e. g. a very ugly person is "a dog sucking mangoes"). Travelers with any degree of fluency in Portuguese are likely to be amazed.
Traditional folklore, a fusion of European, African and native traditions, is manifested through dances and songs unique to this region:
Fortaleza is in the tropics and therefore, the weather is always warm but never extremely hot. Temperatures range from +23-31°C with rare exceptions. There is usually a breeze blowing from the east softening the temperature and forming the sand dunes. The relative humidity is usually between 55-75%. July - November has virtually no rain. February - May can have its share, but mostly at night.
These districts are probably the most interesting for visitors:
Several municipal tourist information offices around, the most convenient being at the airport, the Central Market and Beira Mar (halfway between McDonald's and the fish market).
Orientation
Most tourists will not go more than 5 blocks from the sea, except for a shopping mall. The following main streets will take you from the city center to the fish market, by way of Dragão do Mar and the beaches Iracema and Meireles, totaling some 6 km: Avenida Almirante Barroso, Av. Beira Mar (until Rua Ildefonso Albano, where it's cut off by an artificial beach -the aterro.), Av. Historiador Raimundo Girão, Av. Beira Mar (from Av. Rui Barbosa). This last three km section of Beira Mar (literally Sea Side) is by far the most attractive part of the city, with police stands and patrols making it fairly safe around the clock, although rather deserted from midnight to dawn. The Avenida Beira Mar with its broad pavement stops at the fish market. From here to the beach of Praia do Futuro is the port area, backed by a refinery and slums. Walking here at daytime can be risky; at night, it's asking for trouble.
The Metrofor network consists as of January 2015 of two operational lines; the South line and the West line. Three other lines are in construction or planning.
Like any major Brazilian city, Fortaleza can be done almost entirely by bus. The lines listed here deemed most useful for tourists will run roughly every 10 minutes daytime weekdays, frequencies perhaps halved nighttime and weekends, and down to once an hour after midnight. Only the most useful parts of the routes are described. Some lines have the number 1 or 2 after their names, only to indicate direction, others don't. I.e. the very same bus with the same number and name could be running either from A to B or from B to A. Ask!
All 4000-odd taxis in town run on the same meter system, except the special cabs at the airport.
It is mandatory for taxis to display the fare system on one of the rear side windows. Do not take a cab without such a posting.
Cab drivers in Fortaleza are fairly honest, although a few will put the meter on rate 2 too often. The meter should always run unless you have fixed a price before getting into the car. Taxi stands are abundant, but it can often prove easier to negotiate the fare if you hail one off the street.
Moto taxis, ie. motorcycles that function as taxis, can be picked up at their own stands, ask locals if you cannot find one. Depending on the traffic flow, this can be a rather scary experience. Fares depend on company and distance.
Brazilian city traffic makes this option a bit frustrating for anyone who honks less than once a minute while driving back home. The city is best covered by bus and cab, but a car can make many day trips to outlying beaches. Rental shops are virtually everywhere, and they have motorcycles for rent too.
Quite an effort has been put into restoring colonial architecture over the last years. Still, there is no area that is completely "clean," but the stretch from the beachfront of Praia de Iracema, via Dragão do Mar and to Praça do Ferreira is steadily improving and worth a walk.
One thing worth seeing is the sunset, either from Ponte Metalica, Praia Iracema, or the beach by the fish market, Mucuripe.
Several architectural styles are represented in Fortaleza contemporary (Centro Cultural Dragão do Mar), modern (Mausoleum of Castelo Branco), classical (Museu do Ceará), neo-classical (central railway station), art deco (Cine São Luis), art nouveau (Theatro José de Alencar) and neo-Gothic (cathedral).
There are two nice city beaches, Praia de Iracema and Meireles. Some people discourage bathing here, although they are mostly rated green by authorities. Iracema is often the place for large events and gatherings, in particular, the new years celebrations. The whole stretch from the Ponte Metálica (aka Ponte Inglesa) pier to the fish market is paralleled by the Avenida Beira Mar, very nice for an evening stroll. A string of shacks lines the beachfront, mostly good for drinking and people watching. Some of these, particularly when serving in the sand, have up to three different menus with varying prices. The busiest strip (with the most expensive beer), including the bulk of beggars, prostitutes, and vendors, is right in front of McDonald's, to avoid these go east of the market. A selection listed from the west (Praia de Iracema) to the east (Fish market):
The most attractive urban beach is Praia do Futuro, about 5 km (unsafe to walk) from Meireles. Windy, with rather strong currents and undertows, swimming can be a challenge, but for a dip it's fine. Some 150(!) beach shacks, here a selection from the north (closest to Beira Mar) to the south, with their special features:
Be aware, that the slums (favelas) of the city are located next to Praia do Futuro, and that the beach may not be safe even in daytime. Nevertheless, as a tourism business has grown bigger at the beach, also police presence has increased. At the very end of Praia do Futuro, its name changes to Caça e Pesca. Freshwater swimming in a strong current where the river Cocó meets the ocean.
A popular vacation destination, there is a wide variety of restaurants from steak houses (churrascarias) to pizzerias and fast food restaurants. The best concentration of restaurants in town is found in the Varjota neighborhood, especially along Rua Frederico Borges and its side streets, starting some five blocks inland from Beira Mar.
Fortaleza is a fishing port, so fresh seafood is readily available in the restaurants. If you are a bit more courageous, buy your shrimp/lobster/squid/whatever, straight from the fish market stalls, and hit one of the nearby shacks to fry it for you. Thursday is crab day in Fortaleza, especially in the many shacks at Praia do Futuro. If you prefer beef, there are options for a rodízio (grilled meats en masse with a big buffet of salads and side dishes; but watch out for expensive drinks and desserts in these establishments).
Northeast (Brazil)#Eat and Brazil#Eat presents some regional and national specialties worth trying. In addition to this, as you're in the topics it's easy to find:
Fortaleza is a forró-stronghold. Virtually any day of the week you can find a party with live music and this traditional dance, sometimes in quite modern variations (often referred to as forró universitário). On weekends you can choose from literally dozens of places. For a more genuine, tourist-free happening, you must move towards the outskirts of the city.
For daytime drinking, which can be quite a party, especially on weekends, see the Beaches-section above. For a non-alcoholic refreshment; grab a chilled coconut from a stall at Beira Mar.
The state of Ceará has a large textile industry, and arguably the cheapest clothing in Brazil. Also the capital of hammocks. Best place to buy is the range of small shops opposite the cathedral, city center.
Changing cash EUR or USD into BRL is done close to interbank rates, meaning that it's better value than cash advances on credit or debit cards. Many travel agencies exchange money,you mostly get slightly better rates moving away from Beira Mar.
There are handicraft shops all around the city, but the best places to go are the Feirinha da Beira Mar (Beachfront fair, daily about 4 PM - 10 PM) and the Mercado Central (near the cathedral). These places have a large number of stalls and shops, and competition drives prices down. On Monsenhor Tabosa street there's a street market with all kinds of goods, however, beware that pirated stuff is pretty common here.
Even though the police are working hard to make Fortaleza safer and the city is less dangerous than it used to be, you're still in Brazil. Avoid showing valuable items in public, carrying huge bags (a plastic bag from a local supermarket can be a good substitute) and showing that you're a tourist. The tourist zone around Beira Mar is relatively safe, thanks to a constant police presence.
LOCAL TIME
4:18 pm
January 19, 2021
America/Fortaleza
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