Eat

• Bodeguita El Gallo, Calle San Agustin (Opposite to Picasso's museum's door). Typical Andalusian tavern environment, Sweet Málaga wines, and the most traditional tapas.
• Vegetarian Restaurant Calafate, Calle Andrés Perez, 7. At in Málaga center, hidden gem around the corner from Thyssen Museum. Offers traditional Spanish & Andalucian dishes, with a vegetarian twist. Low-key interior with art for sale on the walls. Good choice for lunch and dinner. Tel: +34 952 22 93 44.

• Cafetería Córdoba 7, Situated in street Córdoba, nº 7 in Málaga center, between the Port and Alameda Principal. Offers traditional and typical Andalucian dishes, including soups, salads, meats and fishes or sandwiches, cakes, croissants or baguettes. Star dishes include Gazpacho andaluz, Paella, Porra Antequerana, Rabo de Toro, Croquetas caseras, and many more. Breakfasts and meals at inexpensive prices.

• Along the coast, there are dozens of restaurants and chiringuitos (beach restaurants) where you can have fish, seafood, paella, sangria, etc. One of the most famous chiringuitos is El Tintero, at the east end, where there is no menu: the waiters sing out what they are carrying and they leave you a plate at your signal. From time to time, one of them offers to give you the bill.

• The most typical thing to eat in Málaga is espetos, sardines squewered on a bamboo stick and grilled over a fire (typically driftwood); and pescaíto frito: all types of deep-fried fish from anchovies to squid. A specialty of Andalucia is fish (most commonly dogfish "cazon", although sometimes other fish such as tuna, "atun") marinated in a garlic and vinegar preparation - look on the menu for "Cazon en adobo". Try also the coquinas (small clams cooked in white wine). Simply delicious!

Jamon is a regional specialty, and is an aged, salted ham, from acorn-fed pork, similar to prosciutto.

• Famous sweet Málaga wine can be tasted in popular pubs in the city center, like the famous old La Casa del Guardia (Avenue Alameda Principal) or the very typical El Pimpi where everyone, from celebrities to local teens meet.

• Restaurante Gallego Candamil, ☎ +34 95 232-3907. Cuarteles 15. On the street leading from the train station to the centre, this Galician restaurant is very popular with the locals. This is understandable when you see the great range of quality tapas at fantastic prices.

• A Casa Gallega, ☎ +34 95 204-2332. Fernán Núñez 2. Another Galician haunt a little further towards, although still outside, the center, this one does not have any menu but relies on the clientele knowing what they want. Good empanada, pimientos de Padrón. Atmospheric.

• Parador de Málaga Gibralfaro, ☎ +34 95 222-1902. Castillo de Gibralfaro. Some report being disappointed by the restaurant at the Parador. The food was sub-par, but the service, by contrast, was exemplary, together with all the nice little free appetizers, aperitifs, etc. Wine list tended towards the expensive but with an excellent idea of a monthly wine choice 'balancing quality and value.' Fantastic view of the city, especially from the terrace.

• Las Garrafas, ☎ +34 95 222-3589. Calle Méndez Núñez 6. Winery and "taperia". Typical Málaga cuisine in a large and clean locale. Delicious and reasonably-priced food. Especially recommended are the mouth-watering "albondigones," large meatballs served alongside french fries.

• Bodega-Bar El Pimpi, Calle Granada, 62 (entrance around the corner from the Museo Picasso), ☎ +34 952 228 990, e-mail: info@elpimpi.com. Daily 10:00-late. Enormously popular with both locals and tourists, this place serves up excellent food and wine. Despite being frequented by such celebrities as Antonio Banderas and Placido Domingo, the prices are very moderate.

• Mesón Lo Güeno, Calle Marín García, 9, ☎ +34 952 22 30 48. Daily 12:00-24:00. Offers a large range of tapas and excellent wines.

Drink

• Málaga has a typically sweet wine called Moscatel made from Muscat grapes.

Málaga nightlife will make you think that nobody sleeps in this town even during the work week! However, it is especially busy from Thursday to Sunday, where people buy their drinks in the supermarkets and have them at night in controlled areas known as "botellodromos" in the city center, before going into the clubs:

• Metropol, Cosa Nostra, Vaticano, Andén (big busy Latin club)
• Velvet Club (aka Sonic, plays metal, hardcore, punk) not open Sundays
• Nyx, Urbano, Village Green (Rock, Indie, etc.).
• White, Abyssinia, Bar El Sound (Rap, Hip Hop, R&B)
• Paradise/Punto G, Warhol (gay)
• ChillHouse ( house-dance music)

• There are several nice Moroccan-style tea houses in town, serving an amazing variety of teas in addition to other interesting non-alcoholic drinks.