Marseilles (Provence), France

Destination:

Mediterranean, Transatlantic

Marseille (Latin: Massilia) is the second most populated city of France (and third urban area) the biggest Mediterranean port and the economic center of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region. In 2013 the city (with its region) was the European Capital of Culture, a large series of cultural events took place, and several new infrastructures were inaugurated. In 2013, Marseille also hosted the EuroPride.

Marseille has a complex history. It was founded by the Phoceans (from the Greek city of Phocea) in 600 B.C. and is one of the oldest cities in Europe. The town is a far cry from the Cézanne paintings and Provençal clichés of sleepy villages, "pétanque" players and Marcel Pagnol novels. With around one million inhabitants, Marseille is the second largest city in France in terms of population and the largest in terms of area. Its population is a real melting pot of different cultures. It is also said that there are more Comorian people in Marseille than in Comoros! Indeed, the people of Marseille have varying ethnic backgrounds, with a lot of Italians and Spaniards having immigrated to the area after the Second World War.

Office de Tourisme et des Congrès de Marseille (Main Tourist Office), 11, la Canebière, ☎ +33 826 500 500, e-mail: info@marseille-tourisme.com. Mon-Sat: 09:00 - 07:00, Sun and Holidays: 10:00 - 05:00.

For people not afraid to discover a real place with real people, Marseille is the place. From colorful markets (like Noailles market) that will make you feel like you are in Africa, to the

Calanques

(a natural area of big cliffs falling into the sea - Calanque means fjord), from the Panier area (the oldest place of the town and historically the place where newcomers installed) to the

Vieux-Port

(old harbor) and the

Corniche

(a road along the sea) Marseille has definitely a lot to offer.

Forget the Canebière, forget the "savon de Marseille" (Marseille soap), forget the clichés, and just have a ride from l'Estaque to Les Goudes. You will not forget it.

Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/
Marseille

Text is available under Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0

Marseilles (Provence), France: Port Information

Most cruise liners dock at the Léon Gourret Pier, 6 ml from the center. One can get there on a cab or a bus. Usually, there's shuttle service.
Smaller luxury ships dock at La Joliette. You can easily reach many tourist attractions on foot from there.

Get around Marseilles (Provence), France

By bus, tramway, subway

Marseille is served by a transit system, the Régie des Transports de Marseille (RTM) comprising 2 subway lines, 2 tram lines, and 74 bus lines. If you have any mobility problems, are in a wheelchair or have a child in a pushchair, you should be aware that almost every métro station has steps in it somewhere and some will have several flights of stairs - stick to the trams and buses which are a better option.

The tickets for bus/métro can be bought in the cafes, at the subway stations, or on the bus; it is advised to buy a multi-journey ticket (carte libertés), which are not sold in the buses. The number of transfers is unlimited (including the return journeys) within the one-hour limit between the first boarding and last transfer on all the network (you must validate with each entry to the bus). The subway actually runs between 5 AM and 12:30 AM. The tram system operates until 12:30 AM 7 days a week. Most bus routes do not operate after 9 PM or so, although a limited network of night buses (Fluobus) operates with infrequent service (only about every 45–60 minutes or so) until about 12:30 AM or so. Using a taxi is recommended if you need to travel after 9 PM

The Pilote website includes all the bus, tram and metro schedules but is easier to read than the RTM sites. Moreover, this site repeats the schedules of the majority of transport in common runs of the agglomeration (tram, bus interurban, trains regional) and makes it possible to search for journeys in Marseille and the nearby communes.

Metro tickets allow unlimited transfers onto bus or tram within 1 hour of initial use but do not include re-entry (1-hour limit) to the metro.

By boat

A Ferry Boat crosses the Old Harbour (Vieux Port). It is a tourist attraction in itself known as the shortest commercial boat ride in Europe. Several other ferries propose connexions with L'Estaque, Les Goudes, La Pointe-Rouge and Le Frioul. Also, there are several companies proposing boat tours of the Calanque, like mini-cruises.

By car

Avoid taking your car if you possibly can. Marseille, at least the center, has narrow streets, one-way streets, random lane changes and so on which can drive both locals and non-locals crazy. The local drivers have a well-deserved reputation for fearlessness - particularly if they are on two wheels. In addition, Marseille has some of the lowest parking fines in France - parking fines are rarely enforced and consequently, you will find cars parked (and sometimes double parked) everywhere.

Due to the new tunnel that is being built to try to alleviate some of Marseille's traffic problems, satellite navigational systems such as the Tom Tom are likely to be out of date and dangerous if followed. For instance, following a Tom Tom in the center of Marseille could take you across newly installed pedestrian areas or Tram lines. The one-way system has also completely changed.

By taxi

Be careful of rogue taxi drivers. While there aren't many, there are a few. If you think you've been cheated get the taxi driver's number (located in the rear of the car, often on the window) and go to the Tourist's Office at 4, La Canebière (near Le Vieux Port) and speak to a representative, they can and will get your money back if you've been ripped off. They will also get the taxi driver in significant trouble.

By bicycle

Marseille has the excellent le vélo cycle hire scheme in place as well as plenty of cycle paths, this makes it possible to get around the city quickly and very reasonably. Each time you hire a bike, the first 30 minutes are free. Note that there is a 150 Euro deposit which will be charged if you don't return the bike properly.

What to see in Marseilles (Provence), France

Vieux Port. (old harbor): watching fishermen selling their stock by auction is a must. Arriving in Marseille in the Vieux-Port on a summer evening is something you will never forget... You can watch this show by going to Frioul islands or Chateau d'If and going back late in the afternoon. there is also a nice view of the harbor from the Palais du Pharo (Pharo Palace). The famous Canebière avenue goes straight down the harbor. However, the Canebière is not that interesting despite its reputation.
Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde, Rue Fort du Sanctuaire. the big church which overlooks the city. Old fishermen used to have their boats blessed in this church. You can still see many boat models hanging around in the church. From there it is one of the nicest views of the city. You can use the tourist train from the Vieux Port to reach the church - you can get off the train, look around and board a later train back to the port.
Abbey of Saint Victor, 3 Rue de l'Abbaye.
L'Hotel de Ville. Marseille City Hall
Le Panier. (which means basket in French) is a historical center of the city.
Marseille Cathedral, Place de la Major (at the Western side of Le Panier quarter). (aka Cathédrale Sainte-Marie-Majeure de Marseille or Cathédrale de la Major) is a national monument of France
La Vieille Charité, 2 Rue de la Charité (at the Northern side of Le Panier quarter). It is a wonderful old monument, a former charitable housing for poor, now hosting museums and exhibitions.

Cours Belsunce.

Place Castellane. with a grand fountain/column/sculpture in the center, with excellent cinemas and cafés surrounding. (NB: There is another place called La Castellane: it is a poor suburb of Marseille where Zinedine Zidane the famous football player was born).

Cours Julien (metro stop Cours Julien/Notre Dame du Mont). is a hangout area with bookstores, cafés, fountains, and a playground for the small ones. It is a trendy area of Marseille.
Place Jean Jaurès. La Plaine is the local name for Place Jean Jaurès close to Cours Julien. Every Thursday and Saturday morning the Plaine market is the place to shop. If you are there early enough you can make very good deals, even if what you'll find there is sometimes "tombé du camion" (fallen off the truck) as one says in Marseille.
Noailles quarter (metro Noailles). Lined with Arabic and Indo-Chinese shops some of the streets could be part of a bazaar in Algeria. A fascinating area.

Palais Longchamp (metro "Cinq Avenues Longchamp", line 1; tram #2, stops "Longchamp" or "Cinq Avenues"). It houses the city's Musée des beaux-arts and Natural history museum. The surrounding park (the Parc Longchamp) is listed by the French Ministry of Culture as one of the Notable Gardens of France. The Boulevard Longchamp connects it with the city center.

Fort Saint-Jean, Parvis Saint Laurent (Walk West on the Northern quay of the Old Port until you hit the Fort). Open until 19:00. Fort Saint-Jean is a fortification at the North-Western end of the Old Port, built in 1660 by Louis XIV. The fort also hosts the Museum "Musée des Civilisations de l'Europe et de la Méditerranée", but the fortification itself is accessible to the public free of cost and worth a visit. You can walk through the old fortifications, stroll through a small park, enjoy the view on the Old Port or on the sea, or walk over the free-hanging bridges to the museum or the Church Saint-Laurent. The Fort also offers a 10 min video show about the history of Marseille and the Fort. free entrance.

Museums and places of interest

Musée des civilisations de l'Europe et de la Méditerranée (MuCEM). a recently open museum; the first French national museum outside of Paris. It has large permanent and temporary exhibitions. Its architecture mixes a very contemporary structure (a dark box) with an old castle, with footbridges linking the two parts of the museum.
Musée des Docks Romains, 10 Place Vivaux, ☎ +33 4 91 91 24 62. Built to preserve the archeological finds at the former warehouses of the old harbor from Phoenician and Roman times

Musée d'Archéologie méditerranéenne (Archéologie-Graffiti-Lapidaire), Centre de la Vieille Charité, 2 Rue de la Charité, 13002 Marseille. Tel: 04 91 14 58 59, Fax : 04 91 14 58 76
Stade Velodrome: the stadium where the local football team "Olympique de Marseille" plays. Football matches are one of the highlights of Marseilles life. Whilst L'OM have fallen on rather lean times the former champions of Europe are the biggest football team in France. The atmosphere at the stadium is fantastic and whilst visitors are unlikely to get tickets for the popular Virage Nord or Sud seats in the Tribune Ganay offers an excellent view and a chance to soak up the atmosphere. Best games involve teams with some traveling support such as St Etienne, Lens or the grand-daddy match of them all against the evil Paris St Germain. Tickets can be bought (ideally several days before the game) either on-line or from the L'OM shop at the Vieux Port.

Mazargues War Cemetery, On the way to Luminy. A war cemetery dedicated to WW I and WW II martyrs from the Allies, especially the Indian and Chinese gunners and runners. A very serene place, it is the perfect place to spend some time thinking about the people who laid down their lives to give us the freedom we enjoy today.

la Corniche: a walkway and a road by the sea that provides lovely views of the sea, the Chateau d'If to the south, and les Calanques to the east.

Parc Borély (Borely park). A large and great park, 300 meters from the sea. After a siesta in the park go have a drink at Escale Borely (a place with numerous restaurants and bars on the beach) to see the sunset.

Unité d'Habitation: designed by Le Corbusier. The building is called "la maison du fada" (the house of the foolish) by indigenous people. The building contains a shopping street, a church, a children's school and housing. You can access the roof and enjoy the breathtaking view of Marseille between hills and sea (10 AM-6 PM). There is a bar/restaurant/hotel on the 3rd floor too. Take bus 21 from Rond-Point du Prado metro.

Outside of town

The Calanques. The Calanques are a series of miniature fjords to the south of Marseille near Cassis. From Marseille, these are best accessed from the University campus at Luminy which can be reached by bus #21 departing from Rond Point du Prado opposite the Stade Velodrome or from Vieux Port. The 'fjords' are amazing with wonderful blue sea and spectacular lime stone cliffs. The walk along the coast from Cassis to Marseille is spectacular, it can be done in one day at a fast pace. The trail (GR) is clearly marked (red and white strips). From Luminy, you can turn left to Cassis or right to Callelongue (a bus connects you to bus #19, which takes you back to Place Castellane in the center, or you can use also bus #21, 20, 23). From June to September some of the Calanques can be closed due to high risk of fire.

The Château d'If The Château d'If is a built small island off the city, initially as a defensive structure and was later used a prison. It is most famous for its place in the novel The Comte de Monte-Cristo by Alexandre Dumas. Tourist boats leave from the Vieux Port.

Allauch and Plan de Cuques are communes on the outskirts of Marseille, both blessed with beautiful countryside. You can take the metro (Line 1) to La Rose and then a bus #142, #144. Take a picnic and go for a walk in the hills, the views of Marseille and the Mediterranean are stunning.

L'Estaque and côte bleue. L'Estaque is a fishing port that is just starting to exploit its tourist potential through its connections to Cézanne. You can get there on the #35 bus from La Joliette (to get to La Joliette take metro Line 2).

What to do in Marseilles (Provence), France

You can visit the fabulous restaurants and cafes. You can go and do many adventurous things such as diving and hiring boats! The calanques (fjords) between Marseille and La Ciotat are a very popular sports climbing area. And of course, if the weather is fine, you can simply go to the beach!

Tours

Marseille en 2CV, Quai des Belges Marseille (near the Vieux Port), e-mail: contact@marseille-en-2cv.fr. You can visit Marseille in an unusual way with Marseille en 2CV! From them, you can ride a "Deudeuche", the most legendary French car. You get a private driver who will drive you in the city of Marseille: the Vieux Port, the seaside, Notre-Dame de la Garde basilica... You can contact them directly or the Tourist Office can arrange the tour for you.

Marseille Provence Greeters, Rue de Forbin (all the city), e-mail: marseilleprovencegreeters@gmail.com. Greeters are local volunteers from Marseille who accompany you on your walk, unveil their secret places and top addresses and regale you with fun little stories about the enigmatic Marseille-Provence area. The Greeters are committed to offering a hospitable welcome, familiarizing visitors with their city and fostering friendly encounters and exchanges. What’s more, the Association Marseille Provence Greeters organizes your walk with a Greeter! Free.

Beaches

Let's be honest, beaches in Marseille are not always great. Moreover, depending on the weather, they can be rather polluted.

However, the small beaches south of the city center between La Pointe Rouge harbor and La Madrague harbor are cleaner, nicer and usually slightly less crowded.

There are also good sandy beaches at L'Estaque - take bus #35 from Joliette metro/tram stop to the end of the line (20–25 minutes).

What to eat and drink in Marseilles (Provence), France

Eat

Unsurprisingly, Marseille's cuisine is focused on fish and seafood. Its two flag-bearing specialties being the famous fish broth "bouillabaisse" and "aïoli", a garlic sauce served with vegetables and dried cod.

La Bouillabaisse de Marseille

La bouillabaisse is an excellent fish-based soup served with la rouille (a garlic-saffron sauce) and bread similar to crostini. In fact, Bouillabaisse is a 2-course meal: first, you get soup from the pot, then you get the rest, i.e. fish.

La bouillabaisse cannot be enjoyed on the cheap. If you are invited to the home of someone making bouillabaisse, then you are in the clear. But never eat cheap bouillabaisse at a restaurant unless it's not called bouillabaisse; only eat it at a place where you have to reserve in advance.

Budget

There are lots of Kebab restaurants along the Canebière. Many cheap, authentic couscous eateries are to be found around the Cours Belsunce, where the local Maghrebic immigrants have their lunch.

Bar de la Mairie, 66 Quai du Port (on the Vieux Port on the right of the City Hall). A very popular spot for the long lunch break Marseille's worker are used to taking. Friendly service, good food, and wine at a reasonable price. No English is spoken whatsoever.
Four des Navettes (next to St Victor Fort), ☎ +33 4 91 33 32 12. This bakery is famous for its "Navette" dry biscuit which recipe has been kept secret for almost a century. This is one of Marseille's culinary specialties. Not to miss.

Mid-range

Many affordable restaurants with sunny terraces are to be found on Cours Julien, a pedestrian-only street near the Canebière and the "Plaine".

La Boite à Sardine, 2 Boulevard de la Libération (m. Canebière Réformés), ☎ +33 4 91 50 95 95, e-mail: contact@laboiteasardine.com. Unlike it's name, there is no canned fish on the menu there. A member of Gourméditerrannée association.
L'Escapade marseillaise, 48, rue Caisserie (behind the Hôtel de Ville). A favourite among locals, this enjoyable restaurant offers a delectable Provençale cuisine.

Chez Toinou, 3, cours Saint Louis (a block away from the Canebière), ☎ 0811 45 45 45NOCC. (aka Toinou Les Fruits de Mer) A local reference when it comes to seafood, especially famed for its oysters. Toinou also acts as a seafood and fresh fish vendor. Since 2013 they run it in a self-service format. This place is often packed.

Le Cercle Rouge, 41 Rue Adolphe Thiers (just off the Canebiere). This unusual restaurant does excellent Corsican tapas such as figatelli sausage, stuffed artichokes, panchetta in honey and red mullet in tomato sauce. Worth booking to get a spot on the lovely terrace.

Le Cours en Vert, 102 Cours Julien (near the Metro station), ☎ +33 4 86774169. Vegetarian and organic (biologique) restaurant on the cours Julien. Wholesome and tasty. Organic beers and wines are available too. Child-friendly. Service is a little slow.

Fayrouz, 62 Cours Julien, ☎ +33 4 91483630. Lebanese restaurant with fixed-price three-course menus.

L'Epuisette, 156 rue du Vallon des Auffes. Its amazing location in the very picturesque Vallon des Auffes harbor is an undeniable plus. Seafood specialties and affordable bouillabaisse.
Les Café des Epices, 4 Rue du Lacydon (their terrace is at the place Jules Verne, just W of Hôtel de Ville), ☎ +33 4 91 91 22 69. Good quality, modern twist, a range of set menus.

Splurge

Le Glacier du Roi, 4 Place de Lenche, ☎ +33 4 91 91 01 16. Perhaps the best ice cream establishment in the city. Yet another member of Gourméditerrannée association.
Chez Michel, 6 rue des Catalans (Bus 83, 81 and 54, stop Catalans), ☎ +33 4 91 52 30 63. for bouillabaisse and other seafood.
Chez Fonfon, 140, Vallon des Auffes (Vallon des Auffes), ☎ +33 4 91 52 14 38, e-mail: contact@chez-fonfon.com. sea food (again bouillabaisse), nice views.
La Table du Fort, 8, rue Fort Notre Dame (by the Vieux Port). A gastronomical restaurant consistently ranked among the city's best, specialized in seafood and fish dishes.

Le Petit Nice Passédat. A 3-star Michelin restaurant on an idyllic location by the sea, facing the islands, held by local celebrity chef Gérald Passédat. It ranks among Southern France's very best restaurants and serves the best bouillabaisse in town... at a cost.

Drink

In recent years lots of new places have opened in Marseille, at night, three main districts are interesting (besides beaches between April and October where people go and spend the night), the Old Port with lots of bars and pubs (particularly on the southern side and on Cours d'Estienne d'Orves, La Plaine/Cours Julien with numerous alternative and underground bars, and La Joliette/J4 with trendy chic new bars and clubs. However, La Friche should not be forgotten, particularly during summer when the very large rooftop hosts DJ parties for free every Friday and Saturday. For events and concert agenda, see La Nuit Magazine or printed paper Ventilo, particularly during summer as lots of music festivals, boat parties (mini-cruises at night with DJs in the Calanques), rooftop parties and concerts take places.

English/Irish pubs

O'Brady's Irish Pub, 378, avenue de Mazargues, ☎ +33 4 91 71 53 71. Sun 12 PM–1:30 AM; Mon-Sat 11–1:30 AM.

Shamrock Irish Pub, 17, quai de Rive-Neuve, ☎ +33 4 91 33 11 01.
Red Lion: small English pub at Notre dame du mont.
Red Lion(same name): famous and renowned English pub at La Pointe Rouge, southern Marseille, next to the beach.

Arty bars

Polikarpov, 24 Cours Honoré d'Estienne d'Orves, ☎ +33 4 91 52 70 30. Lively and good value late bar with outside terrace. Does a wide range of cocktails and one of the cheaper places for beer.
Le Marengo, 45 Rue Sainte-françoise, ☎ +33 4 91 91 56 49. In "Le Panier", a nice terrace with a nice atmosphere
E-wine: on Le Cours Julien, a small bar with a terrace where some local house and techno DJs play.
Bar des 13 Coins, ☎ +33 4 91 91 56 49. Next to the Old Port, a small bar with a terrace which offers a huge number of cocktails.
le Petit Nice: on La Plaine next to the Cours Julien, nice little cafe.

Themes bars

Le Barberousse: between the Vieux-Port and l'Opéra, rhum-specialised bar with pirates and boat decoration.
Play Bar: small gay bar between the Vieux-Port and Notre Dame de la Garde, rue Breteuil.

Clubs

Le Trolleybus, 24 quai de Rive Neuve, ☎ +33 4 91 54 30 45. This three-room cave-like club, a great place to go if you like to listen to different types of music. One room or cave, plays hit music, another room plays underground techno and house music (room led by La Dame Noir records), and the last room plays jazzy and 50-60s music.

Le Cosy Bar, 1 rue du Chantier. Le Cosy Bar is a club aimed at the younger demographic. This is a multi-roomed club, plays top music in techno, dubstep, hip-hop, and reggae til 6 AM. Le Cosy Bar is known for their extravagant theme nights such as Moscow Beach, where everyone's attire is mixed between winter wear and beach clothes, and Soiree Pyjamas, where everyone dressing in pajamas.

Le Baby, 90 Boulevard Rabatau, ☎ +33 6 58 52 15 15. The best electronic music club in Marseille.

Splurge

Le Mystik, 141 route Léon Lachamp, ☎ +33 6 19 33 21 56. Le Mystik is a chic club located near avenue de luminy. The attire is upscale and the club attendees are mainly in the age group of 23 to 27. Le Mystik's DJ plays the top hits in techno, dubstep, hip hop, and r&b until 4:30 AM.

Le Flamingo, 7 Rue Venture, ☎ +33 4 91 33 91 03. Le Flamingo is another one of Marseilles upscale clubs. Its pink lights give this three bar club a calm and soothing feel. The DJs here play the top techno and dub step hits.

Le Palais de la Major, Boulevard du littoral. Recently opened restaurant and club under the Major cathedral, the place hosts live bands from Corsica playing French and international hits. The place is luxurious and beautiful people fit in.

Shopping in Marseilles (Provence), France

Olive oil (one of the best in the world)
Wines (Côteaux d'Aix, Palette, Gigondas...)
Soaps, perfumes and cosmetics

Safety in Marseilles (Provence), France

Since many years, muggings and pickpockets have dramatically decreased in the city center, however, avoid carrying valuables and watch your surroundings, like in most cities. Most of the northern neighborhoods (quartiers nord), except L'Estaque and Château-Gombert, might be risky and should be avoided by tourists, however, there is no logical reason for going there.
The area around Boulevard Michelet teems with prostitutes and should be avoided on soccer nights, as you can meet potentially angry and drunk Olympique de Marseille hooligans.
All that said, overall, the city is fairly safe.

Language spoken in Marseilles (Provence), France

French is, of course, the official language of this region, but you'll find that many people from here have an atypical accent. The e at the end of words is often pronounced softly in Provence, wherein standard French they are not pronounced at all.

An example: the word "Provence" in standard French ends with an "s" sound, as "proh-VAHNSS", wherein Provence itself, it will often be ended with a sound resembling a short English "eh", as "proh-VEN-seh". Many vowels are changed as well, being pronounced in a manner somewhat closer to the English pronunciation of the written vowels.[2] Of course, standard French will be understood by the locals.

This is because several generations ago, they spoke a different language - Langue d'Oc - and so learned French only in school. The dialect of Langue d'Oc spoken in Avignon was Provençal, and is the object of a strong preservation effort in the early 1900s on the part of a group of writers and artists known as the Felibrige. The most famous was Frédéri Mistral, Nobel Prize of Literature in 1908. The language has, however, now largely disappeared, though it is still taught in some regional universities and courses run by non-profit groups. Recently (around 2004) signs on the highway are printed with the village names en Français and in Provençal.
English is widely spoken in tourist places.